Crisp gnocchi with tomatoes. Photograph: Jonathan Lovekin/The Observer

Try small crispy patties instead

Crisp, hot gnocchi, crunchy radishes and ripe, soft tomatoes. A salad of contrasts. I use the vacuum-packed gnocchi from the chiller cabinet. Take care when adding to the hot oil, as they have a tendency to spit and pop. I keep a lid to hand.

 

 

 

 

 

Serves 2
red onion 1 small
red wine vinegar 2 tbsp
ready-made gnocchi 400g
olive oil a little
assorted tomatoes 400g
radishes 8-12
cucumber 250g
parsley a small bunch
garlic 2 cloves
olive oil 4 tbsp

Peel and very finely dice the onion and put it into a small bowl with the red wine vinegar.

Bring a deep pan of water to the boil and salt generously. When the water is bubbling vigorously, add the gnocchi. (If you gently rain the little dumplings in, rather than adding all at once, the water won’t go off the boil.) When they have all risen to the surface (a matter of 3 or 4 minutes) carefully remove them to a bowl using a draining spoon and toss with a little olive oil – it will help to keep them separate.

Dice the tomatoes and put them in a large bowl. Halve or thinly slice the radishes as you wish, then add them to the tomatoes. Peel the cucumber, slice it lengthways and remove and discard the inner wet core of seeds. Cut the flesh into small dice and toss among the tomatoes and radishes.

Finely chop the parsley leaves and add to the tomatoes. You will need about 3 heaped tablespoons. Chill the salad in the fridge while you fry the gnocchi.

Peel and thinly slice the garlic. Warm the olive oil in a shallow, non-stick pan over a moderately high heat, add the garlic and the gnocchi and leave over the heat until the underside of the gnocchi has crisped. Shake the pan from time to time to make sure the dumplings don’t stick, or carefully dislodge them with a palette knife. Turn them over and lightly brown the other side. They are done when they are lightly crisp.

Drain the onion and add it to the salad. You can dispose of the vinegar, it has done its work, taking the pungency from the onion. Season lightly. Gently toss and transfer the tomato salad to a serving dish, then scatter the gnocchi and garlic in the salad. A splash or two of olive oil is all the dressing needed.