‘A batch I was particularly happy with’: feta scones, watercress and cucumber butter. Photograph: Jonathan Lovekin/The Observer

Any scone should probably be eaten the day it is baked, but these will keep overnight, if necessary, in an air-tight container. The watercress butter is a suggestion. Use a little chopped anchovy in the butter if you prefer or a few finely chopped green olives. I suggest using sheep’s yoghurt as it seems appropriate with feta cheese, but you should use any yoghurt you have, or even buttermilk or crème fraîche. Makes 9 scones. Ready in 45 minutes.

 

 

plain flour 225g
baking powder 3 tsp
salt a fat pinch
butter 75g
thyme leaves 1 tbsp
feta cheese 100g
sheep’s yoghurt 150ml
egg and milk for glazing

For the butter:
butter 120g
cucumber 120g
watercress leaves 3 chopped tbsp

You will need a baking sheet lined with baking parchment

Preheat the oven to 220C/gas mark 8. Sift together the flour, baking powder and salt. Cut the butter into small pieces and rub into the flour with your fingertips, or blend in a food processor until the texture is that of fresh soft breadcrumbs.

Chop the thyme leaves, stir them in, then add to the mixture. Crumble the feta cheese into small pieces, then stir in with the yoghurt. Bring together into a ball and place on a floured board, then pat or roll into a thick disc about 2.5cm in depth.

 

 

Using a 6cm round cutter, cut out 9 scones (8 from the original disc of dough, one from the cuttings, pressed together and patted into shape.) Place them on the lined baking sheet. Break the egg into a small bowl and pour in a splash of milk, beat briefly with a fork. Brush the top with a little of the egg wash, taking care not to let it run down the sides. Bake for 15 minutes until risen and pale gold, leave to cool a little, then transfer to a cooling rack.

For the cucumber butter: remove the butter from the fridge and leave to soften at room temperature. Coarsely grate the cucumber into a colander or sieve, place it on a shallow dish or in the sink and sprinkle it with salt. Leave for 30 minutes.

Beat the butter until soft and creamy. Squeeze the water from the cucumber in the palm of your hand, then stir into the butter with chopped watercress (if you don’t have watercress, add a grinding of black pepper). Serve the cucumber butter with the scones.